Climbing grades compared

by Carson Reynolds

Below is a comparison of climbing grades that includes the Ogawayama (kyuu / dan) system used in Japan:

Climbing Routes

Bouldering

French UK Australia UIAA USA Hueco UK Font  Japan
1-2 HVD 8-9 I-II 5.2-5.3
2-3 MS 10-12 III 5.4-5.5
4 S 13- IV 5.6
4+ VS 13+ V- 5.7
5a   14 V 5.8
5b HVS 15 V+ 5.9 V0 B1 4 7 kyu
6a E1 5b 19 VI+ 5.10a V0+ B2 4+ 6 kyu
6a+ E2 5c 19 / 20 VI+/VII- 5.10b
6b   20 VII 5.10c V1 B3 5 5 kyu
6b+ E3 5c 21 VII+ 5.10d 4 kyu
6c   21 / 22 VII+/VIII- 5.11a V2 B4 6a
6c+ E4 6a 22 VIII- 5.11b V3 B5-6 6a+ 3 kyu
7a   23 VIII 5.11c/d V4 6b/c 2 kyu
7a+ E5 6b 24 VIII/VIII+ 5.12a
7b   25 VIII+ 5.12b V5 6c+ 1 kyu
7b+ E6 6b 26 IX- 5.12c V6 B7 7a
7c   27 IX 5.12d
7c+   28 IX/IX+ 5.13a V7 B8 7a+ 1 dan
8a E7 6c 29 IX+ 5.13b V8 B9 7b+ 2 dan
8a+   30 X- 5.13c V9 7c
8b E8 7a 31 X 5.13d
8b+   32 X/X+ 5.14a V10 B10 7c+ 3 dan
8c E9 7b 33 X+ 5.14b V11 B11 8a
8c+   34 XI- 5.14c V12/13 B12 8a+ 4 dan
9a E10 7c 35 XI 5.14d/5.15

This was created by merging Jonas Wiklund’s and Mountain Equipment’s guides. These things are always subjective; so take care in using it as a reference. Nearly every area’s grades/ratings/rankings disagree, sometimes severely.

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